I have a normal MCB based distribution board at home and wanted to understand how to avoid short circuits and heat fires in equipment. See photos of my dish washer plug that has melted due to wife not plugging it in all the way into a Belkin spike buster. Both have got burnt but I would have liked a device in the main board to trip as this was heating up or sparking. This is connected to its own C20 Mini MCB too. I was thinking maybe a RCD or an RCDO should be installed on each phase?
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Any Electrical Engineers?
- Thread starter rsatbf
- Start date
- Replies 7
- Views 2,723
These Plastics and China stuff can not handle good load.
first check the plug (which u usually use in this socket) ... if it has sign of corossion or deposits then it is time to change that too.
There are 2 main reasons for such situation
1. loose contacts leading to sparks and heat
2. Excessive current being drawn
after changing over 10-15 strips and requiring multiple points (read 9) the only sure peace of mind is by making one your self.
take a sheet (same which is used in non modular wall switch boards) get it a wooden enclosure and get it wired it us with a good quality sockets, switches, fuses and wires.
I used 8 5AMP socket+ switches, 1 15AMP socket+ switch, 1 LED indicator and 1 fuse (most important to ensure fire hazard from over loading) all Anchor Stuff (apart from LED indicator) and it costed me around 1300 (including heavy wire (geyser wali)) around a year ago... at a time i was changing my electic strips evey 2-3 months is a history and the board take a good amount of load too (TV , XBOX , All in One , Android TV Stick , Blue Ray Player, Set top box, computer, WIFI+Router etc)...
in your case it is a loose connection... i do not think you can do much the RCD (Redidual Current) would protect from a earthing issue i.e when the phase and nuetral current do not match) i do not think it would help you with such burnouts.. using a non plastic board might help you.
Even auto trippers might not help coz this is due to a high resistance (due to loose contacts) and hence heat and melting. best option would be to have a good quality fuse and a good quality board
btw, i am not sure how much current a dishwasher uses... if it's high (like hotplates , geyzers etc) then it is never recommended to use a xtn board.
first check the plug (which u usually use in this socket) ... if it has sign of corossion or deposits then it is time to change that too.
There are 2 main reasons for such situation
1. loose contacts leading to sparks and heat
2. Excessive current being drawn
after changing over 10-15 strips and requiring multiple points (read 9) the only sure peace of mind is by making one your self.
take a sheet (same which is used in non modular wall switch boards) get it a wooden enclosure and get it wired it us with a good quality sockets, switches, fuses and wires.
I used 8 5AMP socket+ switches, 1 15AMP socket+ switch, 1 LED indicator and 1 fuse (most important to ensure fire hazard from over loading) all Anchor Stuff (apart from LED indicator) and it costed me around 1300 (including heavy wire (geyser wali)) around a year ago... at a time i was changing my electic strips evey 2-3 months is a history and the board take a good amount of load too (TV , XBOX , All in One , Android TV Stick , Blue Ray Player, Set top box, computer, WIFI+Router etc)...
in your case it is a loose connection... i do not think you can do much the RCD (Redidual Current) would protect from a earthing issue i.e when the phase and nuetral current do not match) i do not think it would help you with such burnouts.. using a non plastic board might help you.
Even auto trippers might not help coz this is due to a high resistance (due to loose contacts) and hence heat and melting. best option would be to have a good quality fuse and a good quality board
btw, i am not sure how much current a dishwasher uses... if it's high (like hotplates , geyzers etc) then it is never recommended to use a xtn board.
volcano619
Prononimous
Above post is pretty much upto the mark...If your appliances by fault asks for more current..then your supply will provide that much...which shouldnt happen..so a circuit is used to trip your connection if theres a surge in the requirement...so that you dont catch on fire... 🙂
My strip is a Belkin - ran for 5 years with no issue - 2 washing machines used in parallel. I guess here there was gap in plug to socket as the plug was not pushed in completely by wife. So that gap caused spark/heat build up. However, I want safety at house level and wanted info on a device that will trip when sparks are generated or heat build up in a section of wire in the house - thermal cut off. I am pissed that this will cost me 2K to fix.
I understand on the home made strip, but am wondering why the fuse (in my Belkin) didnt go. Have to check if it has one or not.
I had to use an extension socket, because the bloody dish washer length of wire is only about 4 feet, so it extends only 1 feet above the height of the dishwasher, bloody junk. I dont know why the dish washer should use more power than a washing machine, it doesnt rotate or move around a load at all. Only spins a nozzle, maybe at high speed and heats the water maybe...
I understand on the home made strip, but am wondering why the fuse (in my Belkin) didnt go. Have to check if it has one or not.
I had to use an extension socket, because the bloody dish washer length of wire is only about 4 feet, so it extends only 1 feet above the height of the dishwasher, bloody junk. I dont know why the dish washer should use more power than a washing machine, it doesnt rotate or move around a load at all. Only spins a nozzle, maybe at high speed and heats the water maybe...
